Eli Farnham Esq
Galesburg Illinois Co.
Illinois
U.S. America
[Postmarked: New York Ship Sep 19 12cts]
Baque Issabella Anna off the Coast
of China
March 21st in a fog among the islands of the Chisan Archipeligo
My Dear Brother & Sister
Having been 28 days out from Hong Kong contending most of the time with contrary
winds we are at length within 30 or 40 miles, as we trust, of the island Chusan – We
have been in perils by sea there four weeks, making up a dangerous coast, & yesterday
more than ever, for the fog was so thick that we could not distinguish objects
more than 1-2 3, 4, or 5 miles distant & about 4 PM having only 8 & 6
fathoms sounding the captain determined to drop anchor & preparations rapidly
making when the cry of “Land right ahead” was heard, immediately
the vessel was brought about, and the anchor down, we felt easier, I assure
you. A few minutes afterwards, the fog slightly cleared away & we saw land
on three sides of us. Thus were we mercifully brought to anchor just in time.– It
is now 9 oClock Friday morning, & we are still at anchor for the fog is
too thick to proceed, as all on board are strangers in these seas.- - We will
try & not be impatient, we shall be brought to Chusan in just the right
time. It is the arrangement that I shall remain at Chusan while Mr. Culbertson
proceeds to Ningpo to join the missionaries there. either Mr. Lowrie or Dr.
McCartie will also be at Chusan. I suppose that you get most of the particulars
respecting us through your letters from home.- - I wish it were so that the
letters could be transmitted, for I absolutely cannot write everything to all
my friends - - it occupies very much of my time, & I consider every moment
as due to the mission. My feelings for home are strong as ever, & I love
to think of you all. yet I am far from having any uneasy longing to see you.
I left, never expecting to see one of your faces again in the flesh, & having
no such expectation I never indulge the wish. I am happy in my situation, & in
my work, my wish is to be useful here to work while my day lasts & then
to lay down this body to sleep till the resurrection morning. I have had some
very pleasant seasons of communion with God during this passage. I have found
it good to be in danger, & to feel in the hands of God entirely. God’s
ways are not as our way, clouds & darkness are round about him, but all
things he will cause to result in our good. therefore let us never distrust
of complain. It is now 12 oclock – no less fog – we are stationary
still- - - A party has gone ashore in the small boat - - the owner & 4
of the passengers [page 2]- - Some have gone to see the land – some inquire
of the natives, if any such there be, as to the locality - - for we do not
know where we are - - but the capt. has taken tolerably good observations to
day, & I hope he will soon be able to “Define his position.” Could
we get a pilot on board, we might go through the fog. I think I will not write
much now but wait till I have seen Chusan, then tell you something about that.
Both Mary Ann & myself remain remarkably well - - neither of us have been
unwell at all, thanks to a merciful heavenly Father. Chusan April 9th – We
were 4 days befogged among the [Kweshan] group & 5 days more in reaching
Chusan, you may see the particulars in my letter home – we were more
than once or twice in iminent peril – some of the ladies became exceedingly
nervous- - - Our ship was undermaned & the rigging bad, & it is a wonder
that we got in at all. but we were brought safely through- - We are now safely
logded in Chusan in our hired house I will let Mary Ann tell you something
about it. [Beginning of Mary Ann’s portion] And let’s see what
shall I say first, well then it is a small Chinese house of one story, within
the walls of the city, & the house is surrounded by a wall, as most of
the dwellings are – there are two little rooms on the house that we occupy,
a pantry & kitchen; I wish that you could look into some of the kitchens
en China; they seem quite like a blacksmith’s shop. But as to the two
little rooms. One we have for our sleeping room, & the other (your brother
W has for his study - & we have it too for a dining room, parlour, & all
- one window in each the frame of which is not unlike lattice work, & covered
with thin white paper instead of glass. The other rooms in the house are not
floor’d. The Chinese don’t floor their rooms or have glass windows, & this
house has been occupied by a European & he had these rooms floor’d, & this
I think is quite sufficient to say about it, for we only expect to remain here
but a shore time, as there is some prospect of our having another soon, in
a more airy part of the city. [page 3] I would like to talk with you more,
but the vessel leaves in the morning & I have some letters to finish, so
that I know you will excuse me. Kiss your children for us, an abundance of
love to all - now I must say good night to you. Mary Ann [end of Mary Ann’s
portion]
Chusan, May [8?] -45 - - Now if this is not too bad - - I supposed that this
was sent two months ago, when I made up a package of letters for home – until
day before yesterday I found it in a corner of my portfolio – it was
not neglect – an accident, purely. We have been living at this place
now one month, we have been in perfect health - I am much improved in flesh & vigor
from my rambles over the mountains of Chusan. Mary Ann has been perfectly well,
but to day is feeling out of sorts from a cold, taken she thinks at the top
of the pagoda in the centre of the City of Ningpo, to which city we made a
short visit. This pagoda is fourteen stories high & each story say 10 or
11 feet, & such a view as this tower or pagoda commands! - - not only the
Whole city, but the vast plain in which it is built. The sail to Ningpo from
this with good wind & tide may 7 or 8 hours - - without good wind it may
be 24 hours; for they must anchor [and way?] to wait the change of tide. From
Chusan to the entrance of the Ningpo river we are passing among islands; just
at the mouth of the river is the city Ching-hae where is an officer whose business
it is to come on board every boat passing up & down the river – inquire
respecting the cargo & take the duties for the emperor. It is a walled
town as are all the larger towns of China – foreigners are not allowed
to go ashore hear. Near the city is a lofty hill, & on it’s top is
a Budist temple with groves &c - - the view is pleasant coming in from
the [cov] sea- - After entering the mouth of the river you find that you have
passed a gap of the mountain ridge & you find yourself within a vast ampitheater– As
you proceed towards Ning-po the river the winding course of the river may be
observed by the masts, & spread sails all along its course- - The banks
are very low – but little above flood tide, & in some places to shut
out the flood, walls have built. Along the river you see any quantity of little
conical hillocks which the boatman will tell you are salt heaps – salt
made by evaporating the sea water- - you will observe also that you are now
in the region of wheat growing & pleasant [upside down ] it is to look
again upon the working fields of this well known grain - - - At Ningpo the
missionaries are of our Board Rev. Messrs Lowrie, Culbertson, Way, & Dr.
McCartie with Mrs. Way & Mrs. Culbertson- - - Dr. & Mrs. Macgowan of
the Baptist mission - - Messrs Way & Culbertson are living opposite the
City, across the river – the others are within the walls - - Ning po
is the finest city among the ports open to trade - - more clean - - more pleasant-
- The streets - for some of them are splendid - wide (for Chinese) so straight – with
arches at wh. I think are gates to shut at night - & shops on each side
with their wares quite tastefully arranged - - - We walk though some parts
of the city, & such crowds as there followed as to see the white ladies
- - - & then in all the houses & shops as we passed each on dropped
work, & gazed in utter amazement - - but curiosity is much less than it
was not even many weeks ago.- - Mr. Lowrie & Dr. McCartie are living in
a temple –& they have abundant room, for many of the temples are
monstrous great things- - Dr. McCartie has three boys that he is educating.
his teacher, he thinks is almost a Christian - - Mr. Way’s servant was the lately baptized- - This week they were to form a Church at Ningpo - - -
-
[word covered by seal?] Miss [Hedsey] – an English lady of fortune is
also at Ningpo – has been some years employing herself as a missionary
on her own hook – was some time at Java - & now there are with her
two Chinese girls which were then her pupils – they are young women now
of some accomplishments, & give good evidence of change of heart - - She
has now about 16 or 18 chinese girls with her- - - Dr. Macgowan, a medical
missionary is now a Ning po – he is a baptist- - - - - we visited the
tower, much in appearance like a shot tower – very high – 14 stories – each,
say 10 ft. high, it was formerly – I’ll stop now – for I
see that I have said this once– the fact is I was trying to cheat you,
as though I had written all at one sitting - - but I have caught myself- -
since I took this up to make a finish of it, I have written a sermon, & attended
to various other things.- - - I would be rather gratified to receive some inteligence
from home - - I get papers frequently – that is, the city papers – but
not a word from my own friends yet when they might just as well have been sending
all the time since we left - - I suppose that paper is rising in the market,
or that the geese no longer have quills in their wings - - you don’t
mean that we shall care much about you.- -
[page 2 upside down]
I dont remember whether I have told you what we are about - - I preach twice
on the Sabbath (in English) once to the soldiers in the hospital - & once
to a few in the chapel belonging to the English - - we have a Thursday evening
meeting - & the monthly concert.
I study the language what time I can get, & that is most of the time. We
feel quite at home – we find friends - - there are a few of the English
people whom we find agreeable these are mostly connected with the army.- -
An American merchant – Mr. Bates from Jefferson Co. N York is residing
here - & we are quite familiar – he is a single man.- - There are
some of the Chinese with whom I made acquaintance, & I feel quite an interest
in them - - my teacher was with Mr. Gutstaff when he was at the north – was
afterwards 10 months Miss Aldesey’s teacher – he has some knowledge
of the doctrines of the Bible & is half a mind to believe them & this
evening he brought a friend to me who also inclines to read religious books
he brought a friend to me who also inclines to read religious books.
- If you were here just now – you would hear an awful halloeing – it
proceeds from a Budhist temple not far off where the Chinese have a theatre – in
many of the temples there are accommodations for these – so that when
a band of players come along they turn in to these places & perform their
ridiculous farces- - - There are among them any number of jugglers, ventriloquists, &c
- - -